The Hoa Lo Prison Museum, located in Hanoi, is a testament to Vietnam’s tumultuous history. Built at the end of the 19th century by French colonists, this former prison was primarily used to detain Vietnamese revolutionaries.
Today, the museum attracts thousands of visitors each year, fascinated by the moving exhibits and stories of the prisoners. The narrow cells, personal items, and historical documents offer a unique immersion into the past.
If you wish to discover Vietnam, this is a destination we highly recommend. Let’s refer to a foreign tourist’s account of a day spent at Hoa Lo.
One-Day Itinerary for Visiting Hoa Lo Prison
The Village of Phu Kanh
I begin my visit by exploring the village of Phu Kanh, once famous throughout the country for its pottery activities, exporting its products across Vietnam. Unfortunately, this village was destroyed to make way for the construction of the prison, resulting in the loss of precious craftsmanship that was carefully maintained and passed down from generation to generation. Vietnamese people still lament this destruction, considering it an irreparable loss of their cultural heritage.
It is troubling to think that the destruction of a vibrant village with its homes and thriving businesses was necessary for the construction of this prison, a large building of 12,908 m².
During my visit, I was also able to explore the entire prison thanks to a detailed scale model of the buildings, accompanied by an explanatory legend.
The E Building and the Dungeon at Hoa Lo Prison
Continuing my visit, I discovered everyday objects used by the prisoners, mainly utensils for eating such as bowls or chopsticks. The guards’ items were also displayed, mainly instruments of torture or records of personnel, and prison expenses.
Building E, where the detainees were chained.
The display case exhibiting the infirmary records on mortality within the prison is particularly heartbreaking. Each cause of death is detailed, and it quickly became clear to me that the main causes were poor hygiene and torture. The prisoners were fed insufficient quantities of rice and rotten fish, which they were forced to eat to survive.
Upon entering the next room, I saw a reconstruction of the common room, where prisoners were chained by one foot next to each other in an attempt to limit movement and communication, despite the stifling heat.
A corridor led me to the dungeon after the door, composed of small, narrow cells where prisoners were chained for several days, in the dark, without food, water, or the possibility of going to the bathroom, all under the unlimited violence of the prison guards.
The Women’s Quarters
Continuing my visit, I arrived at the women’s quarters, a building designed for 100 people that actually housed 225 under inhumane living conditions. The lack of hygiene, food, space, and medical care made this part of the prison especially cruel. Not to mention the daily torture they endured from the guards.
Additionally, the women were not classified: political prisoners, delinquents, and criminals, whether they were elderly or young mothers with their infants, were all together. However, they decided to support each other by leaving the ventilated spots to the weakest and establishing a water rationing system for showers, ensuring a minimum level of hygiene for everyone.
It is a very moving space, and walking through the cells and dark-walled corridors, one cannot imagine the suffering they endured.
The Death Row Corridor and the Guillotine
Located at the entrance of the women’s quarters are the death row corridor and “the hell of hells,” the execution room. Against the wall, illuminated, stands the portable guillotine, a witness to the constant horror and danger of the prison. There are traces of several prisoners guillotined for political crimes, with the heads of three of them subsequently displayed for several days at the prison gates as a symbol of intimidation.
The death row quarters were narrow and unsanitary, with two prisoners per cell, permanently chained. Entering the cells was a poignant experience; I realized the cruelty of the living conditions and the suffering of the prisoners, even in their final moments.
Although the law required a 10-month delay before execution after the sentence was passed, prisoners were often executed secretly just a few days later.
The dim lighting and eerie music recreate the terrifying atmosphere of the prison, making me even more admiring of the Vietnamese revolutionaries who fought with iron will for their homeland until the end.
The portable guillotine, used for some executions at the Central House.
The Memorial Gardens
As a small serene interlude in the climate of violence and terror, the memorial gardens contain a commemorative monument to the revolutionaries who died in the prison, considered martyrs in Vietnam, having sacrificed their lives for the freedom of their country.
I also learned more about the personalities of the Revolutionary Communist Party through an exhibition on some of the movement’s great figures, such as Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, a determined young woman who died at 31 for the cause. She spread revolutionary ideas even in prison, using poems.
“Though beaten, though hanged, I remain unwavering.
Though constrained, though captured, I reveal the truth to the end.
For the cause, I sacrifice and struggle,
To defend to the death the principles from which I derive.”
Poem written by Nguyen Thi Minh Khai in 1940 at the Saigon prison.
The Escapes
The next part of the visit led me to a large outdoor corridor, where several sewer openings used by prisoners to escape are displayed. The prison had a reputation for being one of the toughest in the country, but escaping was not impossible. This is what five death row inmates achieved on Christmas Eve, crawling along pipes sometimes only 20 centimeters wide.
Several artworks on the walls testify to the unrestrained violence of the prison guards towards the inmates, including beatings and humiliations.
The Daily Life of American Prisoners
Later, from 1964 to 1973, Hoa Lo Prison was used to detain pilots, aircraft technical personnel, helicopter soldiers, and others during the destructive war in North Vietnam, collectively known as American pilots. This is why there is a section here about the lives of American soldiers.
A special Christmas for American soldiers in the burning prison
Two Rooms Depict the Daily Life of American Prisoners
Two rooms describe the daily life of American prisoners within the Maison Centrale, which they nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton. The treatment of American prisoners was humane; I saw photos of smiling prisoners, clean-shaven, decorating the prison for Christmas or attending screenings about Vietnam.
Several artifacts are on display, such as the uniforms of American pilots, murals they painted for Christmas, a bed intended for prisoners, and eating utensils. Several testimonies are also translated, where prisoners, after returning to the United States, testify to humane treatment.
Memorial to Prison Survivors – Sanctuary on the 2nd Floor
To conclude the visit, I went up to the second floor of the building to access the sanctuary dedicated to the survivors of the Maison Centrale. A television broadcasts a documentary with interviews of former prisoners, who testify to the horrors they experienced. On the walls, the names of former prisoners are engraved on plaques, and panels trace the birth of the Vietnamese Communist Party.
The prison, although a horrible place, was a true school for many, as prisoners exchanged documents and books on political and communist theories, educating each other. This exchange contributed to the unwavering spirit of the prisoners.
This marks the end of my visit to Hoa Lo Prison during my Northern Vietnam tour.
Practical Information about Hoa Lo Prison
Panoramic view of the prison from above
Getting to Hoa Lo Prison
The Maison Centrale is located at 1 Hoa Lo Street, Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem in Hanoi.
It is open to visitors every day of the week, including holidays, from 8 am to 5 pm.
You can choose to get there by taxi, car, or motorbike for a few euros, or by bus.
Ticket and Audioguide Prices at Hoa Lo Prison
A ticket costs 50,000 VND, which is approximately €1.80. Several concessions are available; for example, people with disabilities, students, disadvantaged households, and people over 60 years old receive a 50% discount. Admission is free for those under 16 years old, people with severe disabilities, and those who contributed to the revolution or are veterans.
The audioguide option can also be interesting, providing additional explanations about the visit with exclusive facts and figures.
Dining on Site
Several rest areas are scattered throughout the prison, where snacks and drinks are sold. You can refresh yourself and rest for a few minutes before resuming your visit.
Accessibility
If you use a wheelchair, you can access the prison, as the entrance has no steps. However, some areas, particularly the sanctuary on the second floor, will not be accessible. Most of the rooms and exhibits are easily accessible, making it a highly recommended visit suitable for everyone.
Hoa Lo Prison – The Maison Centrale in Hanoi
In conclusion of my visit to Hoa Lo Prison, I am deeply moved by the stories of suffering and resilience it reveals. This place, steeped in history, offers a unique perspective on the trials that Vietnam has endured. The exhibits and reconstructions allowed me to better understand the lives of the prisoners.
I highly recommend this visit to anyone wishing to discover a poignant chapter of Vietnamese history. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Hoa Lo Prison during your stay in Hanoi for a rewarding and unforgettable experience. You can include this visit in your travel to Vietnam by enlisting a local travel agency to organize it.
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